Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad

The Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad (C&TS) is a 64-mile narrow-gauge heritage railway that winds through the San Juan Mountains of Colorado and New Mexico. It traverses dramatic landscapes from arid high desert to lush alpine forests, climbing over the 10,015-foot Cumbres Pass – the highest mountain pass reached by rail in the United States. Along the route, the line hugs the rim of Toltec Gorge and navigates tight curves, tunnels, and trestles amid the Rocky Mountains’ grandeur. This moving time capsule has been designated a National Historic Landmark for its significance in American railroad historysouthfork.org. The railroad’s name comes from two spectacular route features: Cumbres Pass and the deep Toltec Gorge, both highlights of the journeyen.wikipedia.org.

Built in 1880 as part of the Denver & Rio Grande’s San Juan Extension, the line was originally constructed to haul silver ore and timber through the rugged terrain. After nearly being abandoned in the late 1960s, it was saved and jointly purchased by the states of Colorado and New Mexico in 1970 to preserve its historical value. Today, it is one of the last remaining segments of the famed D&RGW narrow-gauge system (the only other being the Durango & Silverton line) and is celebrated as North America’s longest and highest steam railroad. The C&TS offers an authentic glimpse into 19th-century railroading, with original locomotives, rolling stock, and railway structures that have been meticulously preserved for new generations to experience.

For railfans and history enthusiasts, the Cumbres & Toltec is a bucket-list destination. It offers an immersive journey back in time aboard trains pulled by vintage steam locomotives from the 1920s. You’ll hear the melodious whistle and feel the rumble of authentic coal-fired (and one oil-fired) engines echoing through mountain canyons, just as they did a century ago. The railroad’s Chama yard is essentially a living museum – visitors can see the original 1880s depot, roundhouse, coal tipple, water tower, and dozens of historic freight and passenger cars, many still in usenewmexicomagazine.org. All of the equipment and infrastructure are original to the line, which means this railroad “looks and functions almost exactly the way it did 75 years ago”. This level of authenticity is rare, making the C&TS a holy grail for railway historians and preservationists.

Beyond the history, the scenery alone justifies the trip. Riders are treated to breathtaking Rocky Mountain vistas at every turnsouthfork.org. The train steams through steep canyon walls, over high trestles, and across rolling meadows teeming with wildflowers and wildlifecumbrestoltec.com. Keep an eye out for deer, elk, eagles, and even the occasional black bear along the remote route. In fact, a panel of readers of USA Today voted the Cumbres & Toltec “the best, most scenic train ride in America,” highlighting its unrivaled views and nostalgic atmospheresouthfork.org. Photographers and nature lovers will especially appreciate the dramatic backdrops – from golden aspen forests in autumn to expansive valley panoramas – that make this journey one of the most scenic rail experiences in the world. In short, the C&TS isn’t just a train ride; it’s a moving adventure through the Old West’s landscapes and lore.

Route & Scenery: Whether you depart from Antonito, Colorado or Chama, New Mexico, expect a full-day excursion through incredibly varied terrain. The train zig-zags up and down the Rockies, crossing the Colorado–New Mexico border 11 times on its way. Starting from Antonito, the journey begins in open high desert terrain, quickly gaining elevation into the foothills. From Chama, the locomotive immediately tackles a steep 4% grade through pine forests – often with doubleheaded steam engines on the front for extra power up to Cumbres Passtravelinginheels.com. As you ride, you’ll traverse two tunnels (Mud Tunnel and Rock Tunnel) and hang onto the ledges of Toltec Gorge, looking down 600 feet to the Rio de los Pinos belowalamosa.org. The train rumbles over the 137-foot-high Cascade Trestle and around photogenic curves like Phantom Curve and the horseshoe “Whiplash Curve.” Everywhere you look are postcard scenes: sheer rock cliffs, aspen and spruce groves (brilliant gold in fall), and distant peaks of the San Juan Mountains. Wildlife sightings are common, and the conductor or onboard docents will often point out animals or historic landmarks along the way. Mid-journey, all trains meet at the remote Osier Station (elevation 9,637 ft) for a lunch break. Here, passengers disembark for a hearty all-you-can-eat buffet lunch in a rustic dining hall – a surprisingly tasty homemade spread that’s included with your ticket. After lunch, you’ll continue the remainder of the 64-mile route to the opposite end of the line, having experienced about 6½–7 hours of travel by steam (the full line ride includes a return via motorcoach to your origin, or vice versa, depending on your excursion).

Train & Onboard Experience: The C&TS prides itself on running historic Denver & Rio Grande Western steam locomotives exclusively. Five coal-burning engines (and one converted oil-burner) from the 1900–1925 era are in active service, including the large K-36 Mikado 2-8-2 locomotives that thunder up the grades. The sight of these engines working hard – belching smoke and steam as they climb – is an unforgettable part of the experience (especially on the Chama side ascent, where you’ll get extra smoke and sound). The passenger train typically consists of a mix of vintage coaches with openable windows, a covered concession car (with snacks, drinks, and souvenirs), and a highlight for railfans: an open-air gondola car. This gondola car is open to all riders and provides unobstructed 360° views and fresh mountain air – perfect for photography. Knowledgeable volunteer docents (from the Friends of the C&TS) often staff the open car, offering narration about the railroad’s history, geology, and wildlife as you pass points of interest. Passengers are encouraged to move between cars, so you can spend part of the trip outside in the open car capturing photos, then return to the coach or the deluxe car to relax.

The railroad offers several classes of service to suit different tastes. Standard coach class features vintage bench seating and big windows, while Deluxe Tourist and Parlor Car options provide upgraded seating, tables, and extra amenities. The Parlor Car (adult 21+ only), for example, is an elegant rear car with lounge-style seats, its own attendant, and a private open platform off the back. In any class, a souvenir booklet or guide is usually provided, and staff are on hand to answer questions. Rest assured, basic comforts are covered: restrooms are available on board, and the train makes water stops as needed to refill the locomotive’s tender. The overall ambiance is relaxed and friendly – fellow travelers often chat and mingle, and there’s a shared excitement every time the whistle echoes or a spectacular vista comes into view. By journey’s end, you’ll have countless photos and memories, a full belly from the Osier lunch, and likely a bit of soot on your clothes as a badge of honor from this authentic steam adventure.

The Cumbres & Toltec runs seasonally from late May through late October, with daily departures Tuesday through Sunday (closed most Mondays). It’s wise to reserve tickets in advance, especially for peak dates in mid-summer and the popular fall foliage period, as trains and the premium Parlor Car seats often sell out. You can book online via the official website or by phone. Consider which direction you want to travel: Chama to Antonito or vice versa. Both offer the same sights, but starting in Chama gives you the dramatic uphill climb in the morning (with doubleheader steam on some days), whereas starting in Antonito begins more gently and saves the steep descent into Chama for the finale. Many railfans do the full line one way and return by the provided motorcoach (which is included in a through-ticket). If you’re short on time or prefer a shorter ride, the railroad also offers half-day trips that go from either terminal to Osier and back, as well as occasional special excursions (such as sunset dinner trains, geology trains, photo charters, and holiday events). Check the official schedule for these unique offerings.

Ticket prices vary by excursion and class of service; the fare always includes the lunch at Osier for full trips. If you’re aiming for a particular experience (like the Parlor Car or a special theme train), book early to secure your spot. Families with children are welcome (kids love the adventure!), though note that Parlor and new Premium classes are 21+ only. 

The railroad accommodates many passengers with disabilities – they have wheelchair lifts and accessible coaches available, but you must arrange this at least several days in advance. If you or someone in your party uses a wheelchair or has limited mobility, inform the railroad when booking so they can ensure an ADA-compliant car and assistance during boardingcumbrestoltec.com. The historic nature of the equipment means the restroom facilities are compact, and moving between cars requires stepping over couplings (walkers or scooters cannot roll between cars), so plan accordingly.

At high elevations (7,800 ft at Chama up to 10,015 ft at the summit), weather can change quickly. Dress in layers – mornings can be cool, but it might warm up by afternoon, especially in summer. Even in mid-summer, a light jacket or sweater is smart to have, since it can get breezy in the open car or cool at the mountain top. Comfortable closed-toe shoes are recommended (you’ll be stepping on and off the train on uneven surfaces at Osier). Don’t forget sun protection (hat, sunglasses, sunscreen) – the sun at high altitude is strong, and many cars are open or have windows open. 

For the best photos, spend time in the open gondola car, which has no windows to glare or frame your shots. This car is open to everyone, so you can move in and out freely. If you’re aiming to shoot the locomotive, the open car at the rear gives great views of the engine rounding curves ahead. If you ride the Parlor Car, you’ll also have access to the small rear platform – a prime spot for unobstructed shots of the train’s wake and scenery. On curves like Tanglefoot or Phantom Curve, the train bends enough that you can capture the engine and cars in the same frame. There’s no need to worry too much about which side of the train to sit on initially, because you can always change sides or go to the open car for different anglestripadvisor.com. 

The nearest major airports are Albuquerque International Sunport (ABQ) in New Mexico and Denver International Airport (DEN) in Colorado. Albuquerque is approximately a 3.5-hour drive (165 miles) to Chama, while Denver is about 5–6 hours (260+ miles) to Antonito. 

Driving is the most common way to reach the C&TS. Chama, NM is located on US Highway 64/84, about 47 miles east of Pagosa Springs, CO (1 hour) and 108 miles north of Santa Fe, NM (2¼ hours). The Chama depot is in the center of the village, along NM-17 (Terrace Avenue). 

In Chama and Antonito, there is no public transit or rideshare service (no Uber/Lyft), so a car is essential for getting around. The railroad does provide the motorcoach shuttle as part of through-ticket trips (to take you back to your starting point in the afternoon), but this is only for ticketed passengers and runs on the train schedule. If you are traveling with a group and have two vehicles, a common strategy is to “leapfrog” – park one car at each end to avoid the bus (though the bus ride is comfortable and convenient for most). Within the towns, everything is very close; in Chama the depot area can be explored on foot easily, and in Antonito the depot is just off the highway through town.