Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad

The Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad (C&TS) is a 64-mile narrow-gauge heritage railway that winds through the San Juan Mountains of Colorado and New Mexico. It traverses dramatic landscapes from arid high desert to lush alpine forests, climbing over the 10,015-foot Cumbres Pass – the highest mountain pass reached by rail in the United States. Along the route, the line hugs the rim of Toltec Gorge and navigates tight curves, tunnels, and trestles amid the Rocky Mountains’ grandeur. This moving time capsule has been designated a National Historic Landmark for its significance in American railroad historysouthfork.org. The railroad’s name comes from two spectacular route features: Cumbres Pass and the deep Toltec Gorge, both highlights of the journeyen.wikipedia.org.

Built in 1880 as part of the Denver & Rio Grande’s San Juan Extension, the line was originally constructed to haul silver ore and timber through the rugged terrain. After nearly being abandoned in the late 1960s, it was saved and jointly purchased by the states of Colorado and New Mexico in 1970 to preserve its historical value. Today, it is one of the last remaining segments of the famed D&RGW narrow-gauge system (the only other being the Durango & Silverton line) and is celebrated as North America’s longest and highest steam railroad. The C&TS offers an authentic glimpse into 19th-century railroading, with original locomotives, rolling stock, and railway structures that have been meticulously preserved for new generations to experience.

For railfans and history enthusiasts, the Cumbres & Toltec is a bucket-list destination. It offers an immersive journey back in time aboard trains pulled by vintage steam locomotives from the 1920s. You’ll hear the melodious whistle and feel the rumble of authentic coal-fired (and one oil-fired) engines echoing through mountain canyons, just as they did a century ago. The railroad’s Chama yard is essentially a living museum – visitors can see the original 1880s depot, roundhouse, coal tipple, water tower, and dozens of historic freight and passenger cars, many still in usenewmexicomagazine.org. All of the equipment and infrastructure are original to the line, which means this railroad “looks and functions almost exactly the way it did 75 years ago”. This level of authenticity is rare, making the C&TS a holy grail for railway historians and preservationists.

Beyond the history, the scenery alone justifies the trip. Riders are treated to breathtaking Rocky Mountain vistas at every turnsouthfork.org. The train steams through steep canyon walls, over high trestles, and across rolling meadows teeming with wildflowers and wildlifecumbrestoltec.com. Keep an eye out for deer, elk, eagles, and even the occasional black bear along the remote route. In fact, a panel of readers of USA Today voted the Cumbres & Toltec “the best, most scenic train ride in America,” highlighting its unrivaled views and nostalgic atmospheresouthfork.org. Photographers and nature lovers will especially appreciate the dramatic backdrops – from golden aspen forests in autumn to expansive valley panoramas – that make this journey one of the most scenic rail experiences in the world. In short, the C&TS isn’t just a train ride; it’s a moving adventure through the Old West’s landscapes and lore.

Route & Scenery: Whether you depart from Antonito, Colorado or Chama, New Mexico, expect a full-day excursion through incredibly varied terrain. The train zig-zags up and down the Rockies, crossing the Colorado–New Mexico border 11 times on its way. Starting from Antonito, the journey begins in open high desert terrain, quickly gaining elevation into the foothills. From Chama, the locomotive immediately tackles a steep 4% grade through pine forests – often with doubleheaded steam engines on the front for extra power up to Cumbres Passtravelinginheels.com. As you ride, you’ll traverse two tunnels (Mud Tunnel and Rock Tunnel) and hang onto the ledges of Toltec Gorge, looking down 600 feet to the Rio de los Pinos belowalamosa.org. The train rumbles over the 137-foot-high Cascade Trestle and around photogenic curves like Phantom Curve and the horseshoe “Whiplash Curve.” Everywhere you look are postcard scenes: sheer rock cliffs, aspen and spruce groves (brilliant gold in fall), and distant peaks of the San Juan Mountains. Wildlife sightings are common, and the conductor or onboard docents will often point out animals or historic landmarks along the way. Mid-journey, all trains meet at the remote Osier Station (elevation 9,637 ft) for a lunch break. Here, passengers disembark for a hearty all-you-can-eat buffet lunch in a rustic dining hall – a surprisingly tasty homemade spread that’s included with your ticket. After lunch, you’ll continue the remainder of the 64-mile route to the opposite end of the line, having experienced about 6½–7 hours of travel by steam (the full line ride includes a return via motorcoach to your origin, or vice versa, depending on your excursion).

Train & Onboard Experience: The C&TS prides itself on running historic Denver & Rio Grande Western steam locomotives exclusively. Five coal-burning engines (and one converted oil-burner) from the 1900–1925 era are in active service, including the large K-36 Mikado 2-8-2 locomotives that thunder up the grades. The sight of these engines working hard – belching smoke and steam as they climb – is an unforgettable part of the experience (especially on the Chama side ascent, where you’ll get extra smoke and sound). The passenger train typically consists of a mix of vintage coaches with openable windows, a covered concession car (with snacks, drinks, and souvenirs), and a highlight for railfans: an open-air gondola car. This gondola car is open to all riders and provides unobstructed 360° views and fresh mountain air – perfect for photography. Knowledgeable volunteer docents (from the Friends of the C&TS) often staff the open car, offering narration about the railroad’s history, geology, and wildlife as you pass points of interest. Passengers are encouraged to move between cars, so you can spend part of the trip outside in the open car capturing photos, then return to the coach or the deluxe car to relax.

The railroad offers several classes of service to suit different tastes. Standard coach class features vintage bench seating and big windows, while Deluxe Tourist and Parlor Car options provide upgraded seating, tables, and extra amenities. The Parlor Car (adult 21+ only), for example, is an elegant rear car with lounge-style seats, its own attendant, and a private open platform off the back. In any class, a souvenir booklet or guide is usually provided, and staff are on hand to answer questions. Rest assured, basic comforts are covered: restrooms are available on board, and the train makes water stops as needed to refill the locomotive’s tender. The overall ambiance is relaxed and friendly – fellow travelers often chat and mingle, and there’s a shared excitement every time the whistle echoes or a spectacular vista comes into view. By journey’s end, you’ll have countless photos and memories, a full belly from the Osier lunch, and likely a bit of soot on your clothes as a badge of honor from this authentic steam adventure.

The Cumbres & Toltec runs seasonally from late May through late October, with daily departures Tuesday through Sunday (closed most Mondays). It’s wise to reserve tickets in advance, especially for peak dates in mid-summer and the popular fall foliage period, as trains and the premium Parlor Car seats often sell out. You can book online via the official website or by phone. Consider which direction you want to travel: Chama to Antonito or vice versa. Both offer the same sights, but starting in Chama gives you the dramatic uphill climb in the morning (with doubleheader steam on some days), whereas starting in Antonito begins more gently and saves the steep descent into Chama for the finale. Many railfans do the full line one way and return by the provided motorcoach (which is included in a through-ticket). If you’re short on time or prefer a shorter ride, the railroad also offers half-day trips that go from either terminal to Osier and back, as well as occasional special excursions (such as sunset dinner trains, geology trains, photo charters, and holiday events). Check the official schedule for these unique offerings.

At high elevations (7,800 ft at Chama up to 10,015 ft at the summit), weather can change quickly. Dress in layers – mornings can be cool, but it might warm up by afternoon, especially in summer. Even in mid-summer, a light jacket or sweater is smart to have, since it can get breezy in the open car or cool at the mountain top. Comfortable closed-toe shoes are recommended (you’ll be stepping on and off the train on uneven surfaces at Osier). Don’t forget sun protection (hat, sunglasses, sunscreen) – the sun at high altitude is strong, and many cars are open or have windows open. Of course, bring your camera or binoculars to capture the abundant photo opportunities; extra memory cards or batteries are a good idea as you’ll be snapping away at the scenery and the photogenic steam engine. If you have hearing protection (earplugs), you might bring it for brief use when standing near the engine’s whistle or in the open car, as the whistle and stack talk can be loud (part of the fun for most!). The railroad allows small backpacks or bags on board, so you can carry water, snacks, and essentials with you (though complimentary water is usually available, and a concession car sells snacks and drinks too).

For the best photos, spend time in the open gondola car, which has no windows to glare or frame your shots. This car is open to everyone, so you can move in and out freely. If you’re aiming to shoot the locomotive, the open car at the rear gives great views of the engine rounding curves ahead. If you ride the Parlor Car, you’ll also have access to the small rear platform – a prime spot for unobstructed shots of the train’s wake and scenery. On curves like Tanglefoot or Phantom Curve, the train bends enough that you can capture the engine and cars in the same frame. There’s no need to worry too much about which side of the train to sit on initially, because you can always change sides or go to the open car for different anglestripadvisor.com. Generally, the right side leaving Chama faces outward on the climb to Cumbres (good for viewing the valley), and the left side has views into Toltec Gorge when heading eastbound – but again, you’ll want to roam for the full experience. If you’re a serious railfan photographer, consider booking one of the special photo charter trips that occasionally run, where the train performs staged run-bys for photographers in optimal light. Even on regular trips, the train’s slower pace (12–20 mph) allows plenty of time to frame shots. Lastly, be prepared for a bit of soot or cinders if you’re near an open window or the gondola – protect your camera gear accordingly (a UV filter for your lens, perhaps). Above all, relax and soak in the experience: some of the best memories can’t be captured on camera, so take time to simply enjoy the view and the nostalgia of steam railroading.

The nearest major airports are Albuquerque International Sunport (ABQ) in New Mexico and Denver International Airport (DEN) in Colorado. Albuquerque is approximately a 3.5-hour drive (165 miles) to Chama, while Denver is about 5–6 hours (260+ miles) to Antonito. A closer option is the regional San Luis Valley Regional Airport (ALS) in Alamosa, Colorado, which has limited flights (from Denver) and is only about 30 minutes from Antonito. Car rental is available at all these airports for the onward journey, as public transport to Chama/Antonito is very limited (this is a remote region with no Amtrak or intercity bus service directly to the towns).

Driving is the most common way to reach the C&TS. Chama, NM is located on US Highway 64/84, about 47 miles east of Pagosa Springs, CO (1 hour) and 108 miles north of Santa Fe, NM (2¼ hours). The Chama depot is in the center of the village, along NM-17 (Terrace Avenue). Antonito, CO sits on US Highway 285, about 28 miles south of Alamosa, CO (30–40 minutes) and 115 miles north of Santa Fe, NM (just over 2 hours). The Antonito depot is at the junction of US-285 and State Hwy 17 on the town’s south edge. If you’re driving between the two termini, the route via CO/NM Highway 17 over Cumbres Pass is incredibly scenic (though note it’s a winding mountain road). It’s roughly 48 miles between Chama and Antonito by this highway (allow at least 1 to 1.5 hours). Both depots offer free parking for C&TS passengers – there are large parking lots where you can leave your vehicle for the day (or overnight, if doing a round trip). RVs and trailers can be accommodated in the lots as well. Roads are generally clear in summer, but if visiting in spring or late fall, check weather and road conditions; early snow can occasionally affect the mountain passes.

In Chama and Antonito, there is no public transit or rideshare service (no Uber/Lyft), so a car is essential for getting around. The railroad does provide the motorcoach shuttle as part of through-ticket trips (to take you back to your starting point in the afternoon), but this is only for ticketed passengers and runs on the train schedule. If you are traveling with a group and have two vehicles, a common strategy is to “leapfrog” – park one car at each end to avoid the bus (though the bus ride is comfortable and convenient for most). Within the towns, everything is very close; in Chama the depot area can be explored on foot easily, and in Antonito the depot is just off the highway through town.

Accommodations in these small towns are quaint but can fill up quickly in peak season. In Chama, you’ll find a handful of motels, lodges, cabins, and B&Bs (examples include the Chama Station Inn, Branding Iron Motel, Chama Trails Inn, and several riverside lodges)tripadvisor.com. A campground/RV park is also available in town for those with campers. In Antonito, lodging is more limited – options include a couple of motels like the Steam Train Hotel and Narrow Gauge Railroad Inn, and a few B&B/guest housestripadvisor.ca. Many visitors to Antonito choose to stay in Alamosa, CO (30 minutes north), which has a wider selection of hotels, chain motels, and restaurants. It’s a good idea to book your lodging well in advance if you plan to visit during the summer or fall peak periods, as the nearest accommodations are limited in number. Both Antonito and Chama have a small selection of local eateries (expect simple, hearty fare – and be sure to try New Mexican chile in Chama!). Most restaurants close fairly early in the evening, given the rural setting. If you’re overnighting, plan your dinner accordingly (or enjoy the included hearty lunch on the train and a lighter supper).